Cadran Patiné
Authenticity and Originality Policy
A clearer framework for originality helps make the vintage watch market more transparent,
and easier for buyers to navigate with confidence.
We believe Chrono24’s decision to publish a clearer framework for originality in vintage watches was an important step for the industry. In the vintage watch world, standards have often varied from seller to seller, and that has not always made things easy for buyers. In that sense, the introduction of a more shared language has helped improve transparency across the market.
At Cadran Patiné, we have developed our own framework with reference to this approach. We classify the originality of a vintage watch into four categories: critical components, key components, wear components, and forbidden components. While our framework follows the same broad philosophy, some of our standards are intentionally stricter.
We also look beyond whether a part is manufacturer-origin. We place importance on whether each component is consistent with the watch’s reference, production period, and expected specification. In other words, we also consider period correctness. Even if a part is genuine, if it appears inconsistent with the watch’s era or specification, we will disclose that in the description whenever identified.
01 Critical Components
Critical components are the parts that most strongly define a watch’s identity and authenticity. At our store, we consider the following to be critical components:
- Case
- Caseback
- Dial
- Core movement components
- Movement main plate
For these components, we place importance not only on manufacturer origin, but also on consistency with the watch’s reference and production period. If a critical component has been replaced or altered, we will disclose that in the description whenever possible.
02 Key Components
Key components are parts that strongly influence a watch’s impression and evaluation. At our store, we consider the following to be key components:
- Crown
- Hands
- Bezel
- Pushers
- Date disc
We do not use generic parts for key components. If any of these parts have been replaced, including with genuine manufacturer service parts, we will state that in the description.
As for the luminous material on the hands, it may in some cases have been re-applied at a later date, including with materials such as Luminova. If such a change is known, we will disclose it in the description. Even when the hands themselves are genuine, the lume may have been restored later, and we believe this should be stated as clearly as possible.
03 Dial
The dial is a critical component, and one of the areas we treat with particular care. Elements such as the coronet, printed text, minute track, and markings such as T SWISS T are important in assessing both originality and period correctness.
Minor restoration
We may accept minor lume restoration, provided it does not involve rewritten text or logos, and provided the overall appearance remains tasteful and does not materially compromise the character of the dial. Where identified, this will be disclosed in the description.
Redial
If the coronet, printed text, T SWISS T, or other dial markings have been rewritten, or if the dial has been fully reprinted or repainted, we classify it as a Redial.
A Redial is not automatically excluded from sale. However, because it affects the originality of a critical component, we do not consider such a watch to retain originality in the sense defined here. If offered for sale, this will be clearly disclosed in the description.
Likewise, a genuine service dial will be described separately from an original factory dial, even if it is a genuine manufacturer part.
04 Wear Components
Wear components are parts that are commonly replaced through long-term use and routine servicing. In our view, these include straps, crystals, gaskets, and also certain movement parts other than the movement’s critical components.
Examples include:
- Screws
- Wheels
- Pinions
- Mainsprings
- Seals and gaskets
- Spring bars
- Other small service parts
Because these are wear components, their replacement does not in itself negate authenticity. At the same time, the quality of these parts has a direct effect on reliability, performance, and rate stability. For that reason, even where generic replacement parts are used when necessary, we are committed to using parts of high quality that do not compromise function or accuracy. Low-quality parts often lead quickly to operational issues and poor timekeeping, and we avoid their use.
05 Forbidden Components
We do not accept the following as compatible with our standards of originality:
- Aftermarket parts bearing counterfeit brand names or logos
- Generic parts presented as genuine
- Modified parts that materially deviate from the watch’s original specification
- Parts whose authenticity or origin cannot be explained with sufficient confidence
In particular, aftermarket parts bearing branded trademarks or logos are treated as seriously compromising authenticity.
06 Our Approach
We do not view vintage watches as a simple matter of “all original” or “not original.” What matters to us is explaining, as honestly as possible, which parts are original, which parts have been replaced, and whether those components remain natural and coherent in light of the watch’s period and specification.
Our guiding principles are as follows:
- We place strong importance on manufacturer-origin critical components and period correctness.
- We do not use generic parts for key components.
- Later lume work on the hands and minor restoration, where identified, will be disclosed.
- Redials are not treated as retaining originality under this policy.
- For wear components, we prioritize high-quality parts that preserve proper function and performance.
We aim to offer not watches that have merely been made to look attractive, but vintage watches that can be clearly explained and confidently chosen.